PARIS PAPERS VOLUME VI ~ MARCH 20, 2006

Sunset at Mont Marte

Dear Everybody,

I can hardly believe that it is time for another Paris Papers. It seems like I JUST wrote the last installment. But sure enough, it has been two weeks, and so here we go:

Update on the barricades: I have not had school since the last blog entry. So basically the students have been striking for 3 straight weeks and therefore I still have not had class. I am sure most of you heard about the nasty exchange at the Sorbonne: in protest the students took over, and decided to occupy the Sorbonne, something that has not been done since the really ugly student riots in 1968. The French police stormed the building with tear gas and riot gear to re-take the Sorbonne. My hosts tell me this is very symbolic. The French government felt they needed to take back the Sorbonne because of the symbolism of 1968. Unfortunately, this showing of force really irritated the rest of the students rioting throughout Paris, so now rather than just protesting the CPE law, they are now also protesting the (according to them) undemocratic storming of the Sorbonne. The really ugly thing is that neither side seems to want to back down. If anyone wants more information on this political business, your best bet (if you don’t read French) is probably the BBC, my school has been mentioned several times (Paris VII/Jussieu/Denis Diderot/Pierre & Marie Curie, my school has a lot of names). And what’s more, there are now anti-strike protests. There are students who want the schools to reopen, and so they are demonstrating against the strikers, and there is some mounting tension. As much as I would like to see the schools reopen, I am not about get involved.

In the absence of classes I am trying to stay on top of my work. I am still struggling with the format of a French “dissertation” (paper). I may have mentioned this previously, but you absolutely cannot take a stand on an issue in such a paper. You are given a question or a topic and have to explore and prove all facets of the issue, as opposed to in the states where you usually take a side and prove your chosen side with facts and sources. There are also specific subtleties that need to be followed in terms of certain key phrases that need to be in a paper and so forth. It is a very strict format to be followed, only I am yet to find any documentation of the particularities of the style, the French just seem to inherently know it. I never thought I would say this, but I would give my right arm to have to write a 5-paragraph essay format paper at this point! I also now have an additional paper to write in the place of one of my oral presentations. Since school has been inaccessible I have to submit a paper rather than give an oral report. This is a mixed blessing, I don’t have to speak in front of the class, and instead I have to write another paper in the French style.

I made this tart, see, I can cook!

The one class that I have been able to attend (because it is not affiliated with the Parisian University system) has been my French Cuisine class. We have made some amazing dishes. Our bœuf bourguignon was INCREDIBLE. This past week we worked with endives. They are not something I have ever seen in the states. They are sort of a lettuce/cabbage/leek vegetable (related to the chicory) that is VERY bitter when eaten raw. We ate them raw in a cold salad with apples and walnuts with a mustard vinaigrette dressing. Then for the main dish, we had steamed endives wrapped in ham and cooked in a béchamel sauce (cheese/cream sauce) that was out of this world! And for desserts, I can now make gateau basque which is beyond incredible, and a fresh fruit tart with almond cream which was so good I almost cried. Our instructor has also been bringing French cheeses for us to sample. Two weeks ago we had the soft cheeses of northern France (camembert, brie, etc), and most recently we tried five different kinds of bleu cheese (including the infamous Roquefort, which is not as bad as its reputation). So every Wednesday my classmates and I eat like royalty and what’s more, we learn how to cook some incredible foods.

Andrea and I hanging out at the Paris Opera House

Andrea and the Eiffel Tower from the top of L'Arc de Triumphe

The Pyramid at the Louvre, just like in the DaVinci Code movie trailer, except Ron Howard got to have the fountains on, and I didn't. I can't understand why! :o)

The Thinker and the Dome of Invalides

Napoleon's Tomb

Gargoyle at Notre Dame

Playing around at the Paris Opera House

The big news is that my sister, Andrea, was here with me in Paris for five days! We had a great time, and for the first time I was thankful for the strikes, because I didn’t have to desert her to go to classes. In her five-day sojourn we did it ALL! It was so fun for me to show someone around the city I have come to know so well. I took her to all my favorite places and did some new things too. Of course I took her to Mont Martre for Sacre Coeur and the Artists. I took her into the catacombs, which, as you may recall from previous entries, are fascinating in a rather creepy way. We climbed l’Arc de Triumphe, la Tour Eiffel, and the towers of Notre Dame. We took a guided tour of the Opera house which was very informative and walked past the infamous Moulin Rouge. We spent an evening wandering/getting slightly lost in the Louvre. We ate more pastry than any two people should in 5 days. We went to Sainte Chapelle (the church with the incredible windows), Invalides (to pay our respects to Napoleon), we visited our friend The Thinker, took a boat tour of the city at night, and walked what seemed like a million miles around Paris. We stumbled across a memorial ceremony at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, and heard the French National Anthem, La Marseillaise played live by a band. Andrea also got to venture outside of Paris by accompanying me on my group’s trip to Lille.

Lille is a city in northern France, former esteemed President Charles DeGaulle was born there. Unfortunately it was frigid (and I do mean COLD) and raining the day we went, so the beauty of the city was somewhat DAMPened (sorry, couldn’t resist). There were some nice medieval buildings and a gothic cathedral, but unfortunately the weather made it difficult to appreciate the location.

The Brewmaster

The beer, Amber and Blonde, both very tasty

After Lille we visited a tiny little brewery, literally in someone’s barn. Lille and the surrounding towns were part of Flanders for quite some time, and so the Flemish tradition of excellent brewery skills still lives on today. Now, I will preface this by saying that I am by no means a beer expert. They few times I have tasted beer I have not cared for it, however, the beer we sampled was AMAZING. There was no bitterness, it was flavorful and smooth. It was extraordinary. The owner walked us though the process of making the beer. Living in Merrimack, New Hampshire afforded me the opportunity of touring a Budweiser plant, but this was a slightly smaller operation and a little more intimate. I was present for my sister’s first beer ever (she is not old enough to drink in the states), and my parents will be thrilled to know that I turned her into a beer snob, I highly doubt that Budweiser would measure up to independently brewed Flemish beer. Either way, IF you should ever come across a beer called “Esquelbecq,” (they are exporting in small quantities to the US) I would highly recommend the blonde or the amber.

Following our little brewery adventure we visited a glass and crystal factory. It was interesting to watch the process. Sometimes it is easy to forget that the vessels we drink out of every day are actually made from SAND. It was very interesting to watch the machines that actually replicate the old art of glass blowing. Interestingly enough, most of the glass we still use is blown glass, it is done by machines, but it is apparently the most common way to make glass. It is also fascinating to watch the precision of these machines, and to watch them delicately handle thousands of pieces of glass. I also have determined that I would not like to work in a glass factory; it is intensely hot and loud. Sorry that there are no pictures for this section, we were not allowed to take any for fear of industrial spies (I am not kidding).

Andrea's Escargots

All Dressed up for Dinner on the...

... Eiffel Tower

During Andrea’s visit we found some nice French cuisine for her to try including escargots, some traditional Entrées. On a little tangent that may prove helpful should any of you readers visit France: in France the word “entrée” (derived from the verb meaning to enter) means an appetizer, and a “plat” is what we call an “entrée” in the states (the main dish), but to confuse you further, I was using “entrée” in the “plat” sense in the pervious comment. We also managed to consume a fair amount of crepes, pastries, and desserts. For Andrea’s last night we went to dinner at Altitude 95, the famous restaurant on the first tier of the Eiffel Tower. Having her here was spectacular, and I miss her now that she is gone, so please, if anyone else would like to visit Paris, you have a most willing tour guide at your disposal (that means me).

Sunset in Paris

Life got a little bit boring for a few days after Andrea left. The protesting heated up and I did my best to stay home and out of trouble, plus I need to relax a little bit after being the super-tourist. Friday was St. Patrick’s day, and I did wear green, though it is not as much of a holiday here. My friends and I did seek out and Irish pub, but the few we found were too full to enter, so we settled for crepes instead.

This past weekend I went to Belgium, I did however, get gypped, when you take the train from one country to the next, you don’t get a stamp in your passport! So I have no official record of ever being in Belgium! However, since that was the absolute low point of the weekend, I think you all can infer that I had a great time.

City hall in Brussels, it is too huge to fit into a picture, I tried from every angle!

The World-Famous Mannequin-Pis

I spent the first day in Brussels (which is spelled so many different ways). After Paris, Brussels seems so tiny and quiet. I was very nice. The Grand Place is gorgeous. It has the most elaborate Town Hall I have ever seen. However, Brussels’ most renowned monument is little more than a foot and half high. The Mannequin-Pis statue/fountain resides not far from the Grand Place. This is a small statue of a nude little boy done in the classical Greco-Roman style from the Renaissance era (I have to make this somewhat educational, otherwise it is just too silly), a peculiarity about the statue (aside from the obvious) is that the statue is of a man’s body (in terms of muscle structure) with a little boy’s head. And, as you can see in the picture, this world-famous statue is of a little boy peeing. Some Belgians will tell you that the statue symbolizes the freedom that they enjoy as citizens; I just think it is amusing. This statue has over 700 different costumes that it wears for different occasions, and there is actually a committee that oversees his wardrobe. And if this was not already silly enough, the statue has its own song. I am by no means making fun of Brussels’ mascot, but, you must admit to smiling about this monument, you turn the corner and there is this tiny little bronze boy piddling for all the world to see for all eternity.

The Atomium, which is allegedly what an Iron atom would look like magnified millions of times in a crystal state.

I took a bus tour of Brussels and was able to see the royal residence, and the official parliament of the European Union (EU). We drove by a rather odd looking structure, the Atomium which was build for one of the World’s Fairs, I suppose I should not call it odd, as the Eiffel Tower was build for the same purpose and it became the symbol of France. I also visited the gothic cathedral, and the ruins of a much older church underneath it. There was also a lovely little craft fair in one of the smaller squares.

Yum.

Of course, a trip to Brussels would not be complete without the consumption of a Belgian Waffle. In order to enjoy the full experience of Belgium, I decided that it would be best to go with the deluxe waffle with fresh strawberries, bananas, chocolate, and of course, whipped cream. There are no words to describe how delicious a true Belgian waffle is.

Me in Bruges

Canal in Bruges, look at how close the houses are to the water!

I spent the night in Soignies with the Halko family, who were INCREDIBLE hosts. They are fellow Americans who I met though one of my mother’s friends. We had a nice evening playing with their adorable daughters, and eating American food (steak and potato salad have never tasted better in my life). On Sunday morning, Elesha gave me the Grand Tour of Bruges (also spelled many different ways).

Hand-made Lace in Bruges

This is how lace is made

The roofs that look like the have steps are a form of Dutch archietcture

Bruges is amazing; it might be my new favorite European city (after Paris, of course). Bruges is a smaller city full of Flemish and Dutch style buildings. Most of the architecture is brick, and there are beautiful little canals that run throughout the city, apparently Bruges is sometimes referred to as the “Venice of the North.” Bruges is most known for its hand-made lace. I never appreciated lace before. I know that it is not something most people contemplate, but the process of lace-making is absolutely awe-inspiring. It takes hundreds of hours to produce a piece a little larger than the palm of your hand. Each piece is so delicate and so unique I was constantly reminded of snowflakes. Bruges is one of the last places that still practices the art of hand-making lace. It is passed down through generations. All of the winding little streets are lined with lace shops selling such beautiful work. As a quilter, and craft enthusiast, I now have a profound appreciation for the art of lace-making, what patience these people must have!

Michael Angelo's Modonna and Child

Bruges is a wonderful place. I just could not get past the simple beauty of it. To me it felt like a small fairy tale town with the cobblestone streets and canals. There were little flea markets and craft sales. There were horse-drawn carriages that clopped down the streets. There are beautiful churches. The “Church of the Lady” actually houses one of the few Michael Angelo pieces located outside of Italy. There is an original “Madonna and Child” in white Marble there. It is always a pleasure to look at the work of such a master (I am a frequent visitor of his “Death of a Slave” in the Louvre).

Bruges

Of course another Belgian waffle just happened to find its way into my mouth, and I also ate French Fries in their birthplace. Yes, “frites” (French fries) we actually invented in Belgium. And of course, the chocolates. I can now attest, without hesitation, that Belgian chocolates are the best in the world. They are delicious, positively scrumptious. The truffles are to die for! Fear not dear friends, I sampled them for all of you; I did so purely for your benefit. :o) In sort, I would highly recommend Belgium (especially Bruges) as a travel destination.

More Eiffel Tower

That is about all I have for news for the time being. Pictures are up over 4,000, and the weather is getting slightly warmer. I hope that you have enjoyed this latest edition of The Paris Papers. I do enjoy writing them, and I love hearing your comments. I hope that this finds everyone well back home. I will be back in 2 weeks with more adventures to share! Until then, I will remain your Editor-in-Chief and expert on my life in Paris,

~Monica

Sunset on the Seine