PARIS PAPERS VOLUME IV ~ FEBRUARY 20, 2006

Dear Everyone,

I can hardly believe that it is time for another edition of everyone’s favorite bi-monthly periodical. I have been busy this past two weeks (does that surprise anyone?). I got a new stamp in my passport, tried some new foods, upped my total photo count to over 2,000 (no lie), and if you would rather have the long version of events, read on dear subscribers:

I have begun planning a great adventure of epic proportions with Dominic, my best friend from High School (currently studying abroad in Wolverhampton, Great Britain). We will be racing around Europe for Spring break. Our spring breaks happen to coincide (April 7-23). In those two weeks we hope to visit Wolverhampton, London, Paris, Florence, Rome (Pompeii), and Nice. It is going to be quite an adventure.

I spent a free day roaming around Les Hales (the former site of the huge market of Paris). I visited Saint Eustache Church and Hotel de Ville. On this day of wandering, I found new sneakers that fit. They are men’s, but you really can’t tell. So finally the holey ones can be laid to rest. I also discovered one of the best views in Paris. You can see the whole city from the roof of the Galeries Lafayette department store, and if you are ever in Paris on a budget, it’s free to go up there, unlike most places of similar viewing pleasure.

My host family has been out of town, so you know what that means: PARTY! Ok, not so much, but with Mme’s permission I invited the girls in my program over to dinner. We had fajita’s and celebrated our “One Month Anniversary” in Paris. It is still incredible to believe that I have been here for so long, going on 7 weeks now. I still am adjusting to the idea that I am here until June.

The Catacombs

Close Up of the Bones

I spent an afternoon underground in the catacombs. The catacombs were originally quarries where gypsum was mined. However, in 1785 these tunnels began to serve a new purpose. The catacombs are an immense mass-grave. It is estimated that there are over 6 million bodies laid to rest in these tunnels. It has the potential to be quite frightening, but it is quite interesting to visit. The bones are all stacked very neatly and methodically, sometimes in patterns. It is sort of morbidly cool. The tunnel accessible to visitors runs more than a mile under the city and the bones are stacked shoulder high on each side and probably about three feet deep to the walls. For the first time in my life I actually came to understand the meaning of “millions.” I now have a new appreciation for the use of the word “million.” Perhaps the most interesting thing about the catacombs is that they were where the French Resistance held meetings during WWII. As if the thought of being killed by the Nazis for resisting was not frightening enough, you attended secret meetings amongst the bones of your ancestors. *Shudder*

Shakespeare & Co.

Truly a Reader's Paradise

I discovered an amazing book shop near Notre Dame, it is called Shakespeare and Company. It is everything a bookstore should be: wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling books. Piles of them, double-stacked on shelves. Book of every size, color and age: Harry Potter next to Plato. Hand-written signs inviting you to stay and be comfortable. There is a tiny wooden staircase to get to the second floor, and ladders, and a cat. There are mattresses for reading, and you are welcome to stay and read for hours without being bothered. There are messages from readers past all over the walls. It smells of old paper and is so incredibly welcoming that I could have stayed for years. Interestingly enough, it is an English book shop run by a British family. They are incredibly nice, and the book shop is amazing. Their filing system is a little lacking (or nonexistent) but it is truly a wondrous place for a life-long reading enthusiast. Forget Barnes and Noble and Amazon.com!

These 2 Photographs of Notre Dame were taken within 15 Minutes of Eachother; Look at the difference in the lighting!!!!

Pretty Cool, or I think so...

I also visited the relics at Notre Dame, well the one relic that is accessible, the rest are in a vault. It is possible to view one of the alleged thorns of THE crown of thorns. This relic was housed in the Sainte Chapelle (see Volume III) until all the relics where consolidated to be better safeguarded at Notre Dame.

The Artists Of Mont Matre

Selling their work

As People Browse

Right Beside Sacre Coeur

I spent another afternoon on Mont Matre wandering the narrow streets and browsing the artists. That is truly one of my favorite spots in Paris. Life just seems slower and more peaceful. I just love sitting in a café sipping a hot drink and watching the people pass. I won’t bore you with details of my people watching, but if you are ever in Paris, just go for an hour, to me, the experience IS Paris.

I personally would not mind a gold-plated casket...

I also made use of my Louvre Pass and spend an evening wandering the Egyptian collection. Truly an amazing civilization. I had forgotten how vast the Louvre’s collection of Egyptian artifacts is. One thing I found amazing was the jewelry, the detail is incredible considering when they were made. It also amazes me that there still exist intact pieces of papyrus with legible hieroglyphics on them. The fact that something so delicate can endure for millennia is beyond belief.

Speaking of history, I recently discovered that I am living in the same apartment building that Captain Dreyfus lived in. For those who are historically inclined, I am referring to THE Captain Dreyfus of the infamous Dreyfus Affair. He lived in this building from 1928 until his death in 1935. There is a plaque just above the entry door and I never noticed it until recently.

My friends and I attempted to explore Père Lachaise cemetery (the final resting place of Jim Morrison of the Doors, and of some prominent figures in French culture). The cemetery is sort of neat, there are some incredibly elaborate tombs, and it is a very peaceful place. I was a nice adventure to start with, but we were turned away by a sudden hail storm. So we ended up cold and wet, and thoroughly beaten by the tiny beads of ice. We settled for coffee instead.

The Acqueduct in Segovia

Me with the Acqueduct

Rachel, my fabulous host, tour guide, and translator

In Volume III I made mention about visiting Barcelona, Spain, well that didn’t happen. However, Madrid did. I spend a weekend with my ex-RA from Hart Hall, Rachel. She is currently on exchange in Madrid. We had a Fantastic weekend touring Madrid, Segovia, and Toledo. We saw castles, cathedrals, aqueducts, and parks, and ate some delicious food. Spanish coffee is everything it is cracked up to be. And did you know that Madrid is most famous for its Ham? I didn’t know that, but I will attest that it is delicious! And there is nothing like fresh churros. I had a great time in Madrid. I would have been completely lost without Rachel, as my Spanish is right on par with my German and Chinese, which means to say that I speak none of them. :o)

Segivoa

Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on your point of view, I do not have much of a historical dissertation on the Madrid area because most of the materials and signs were in Spanish (see above paragraph). I do have some general observations.

The Cathedral of Segovia

Segovia was by far my favorite part of my trip to Spain. I was amazed at how different SpainFrance. was from I think that before this adventure I sort of lumped Europe into one category, assuming it would all be somewhat similar. Very dumb. Lumping Spain and France together is like lumping Texas and Maine into the same category under that justification that they are in the same country. Oops. My mistake. The architecture in Spain is very different. It reminds me a lot of the south-west with the orange roofs and yellow walls. Spain is very sunny, not that ParisSpain was night time. does not have some sunny days, but they only time there was no sun while I was in The weather was much warmer than Paris, and it was absolutely beautiful the whole weekend. Spain is also very hilly. VERY hilly. I got quite the work-out while I was there. Siesta is a real event. Every afternoon, things shut down for about two hours and people do in fact, return home and sleep.

The Castle in Segovia from the Front

And the back (it is literally build right to the edge of the cliff)

Madrid at Sunset

Rotiro Park at Sunset

If you ever find yourself in Madrid Rotiro Park is well worth a visit. On a Sunday afternoon it is full of life and activity, jugglers, musicians, acrobats, families, and games. It was a really neat spot. You can rent a boat for an hour and paddle around on the little man-made lake and pass the afternoon. Bull fighting had not started yet, that begins later in the spring, but I did visit the Plaza del Toros. I was sad to leave because Madrid is truly a lovely spot, however, it was not too torturous to return to Paris. :o)

I have had a slight change of schedule, I swapped French classes. The one I was in was not concentrating enough on grammar, and now as a result of the swap, I am in a more grammar-oriented class, and have Mondays free, how dreadful, 3-day weekends every weekend. Speaking of classes, they are going well. I have an oral presentation this week (*Gulp!*). I am working with two French students, Vanessa and Pauline, and they have really been kind and have been nursing me though and helping me loads. I have never been so nervous about an oral presentation in my life! Of course, I have never had to give one in French in front of French students before. Who would have ever imagined Monica not wanting to talk! The presentation is called an exposé, and it is basically a commentary on a primary source. Our text is the 25 Points of the Nazi-party (it is a 20^th century history course, and we are just starting WWII). Here is hoping I don’t goof things up too badly.

I have discovered that French students are quite politically active, or perhaps their interest is just issue-related. One of my classes was commandeered by protesting students last week. Apparently there is a law that exists or that has been proposed that has them quite upset. My understanding is (from what my French friends tell me) that this law basically allows any employer to fire someone in their first two years of work without any justification. This has the students all riled up because it affects them the most as they will be soon entering the working world. The students who took over my class were trying to have a General Assembly and the University faculty and staff had locked them out of every other lecture hall, and in order to have one for their meeting, they needed to steal one that was in use before it could be locked. Luckily, my professor supported the commandeering. So I got the rest of the afternoon off, I would have stayed to hear the issues, but I would rather stay out of trouble while I am 3,000 miles away from home.

I have been able to watch a little bit of the Olympics in TV. It is very interesting watching the games in French. It is quite obvious that the focus is on the French Athletes, especially when the commentators get caught up in the moment and are screaming along with the spectators. I watched the French pick up gold medals in the Men’s and Women’s biathlon. I also watched very sadly as Bode Miller of the US failed to complete the Super G, and Johnny Weir of the US was unfairly judged in figure skating. I also caught a tiny bit of a luge competition and some snowboarding. One thing I LOVE about French TV: there are no commercial breaks! All of the commercials are at the end of the time slot. So basically you have 50 continuous minutes of coverage, and then 10 minutes of commercials. Maybe that is special for the Olympics, but I think American television should take notes!

In the trying new things category: I have eaten falafel. I was sort of forced into doing it by my housemate. I like it. It is very different. We went to a little restaurant in the Maurais (one of the Jewish neighborhoods). I also found bagels there (I am very tempted). I am also on a kiwi kick. I had not eaten kiwi since elementary school and one of the girls in my group brought it to one of our little dinner events and I have been hooked ever since. In Spain I drank coffee, my first full cup ever, and I liked it, but I probably will not be a total convert. I have also found the most amazing Crêperie in the world in the Latin Quarter. It is divine all sorts of flavors and interesting combinations.

Speaking of the Latin Quarter, it is lovely. The streets are tiny and flooded with people. There are tiny little restaurants with people standing outside enticing you to come in and eat. There are several Greek restaurants, and it is alarming the first time you pass and they are breaking dishes on the sidewalk (if anyone can explain this, please post it in the comments, because I am curious as to why they do this). Also there are the roman ruins, Les Thermes, they are called, the Baths. They were built when the Romans inhabited Gaul (as conquered by Julius Caesar). There is also Saint Severin Church to visit.

Looking ahead to the future: Next weekend I will be in Burgundy with my API group, and then I have a succession of visitors to Paris: Kayleigh from Angers (I stayed with her a few weeks ago), and MY SISTER! Andrea is coming from the states to stay with me and I am VERY EXCITED. The poor girl probably is not going to know what hit her I have so much to show her. Then I am hoping to venture to Belgium for a long weekend. And then of course the Epic Adventure with Dominic creeps ever closer. I am truly having a blast, and keeping up with my school work. If anyone thinking about studying abroad or traveling to Europe is reading this, I have but two little words:

DO IT!

Until next time, I remain your ever-busy, ever-verbose,

~Monica

Me rowing on the pond in Rotiro Park in Madrid

PARIS PAPERS VOLUME III ~ FEBRUARY 6, 2006

Dear Everyone,

Welcome to the latest edition of the Paris Papers. I can hardly believe that it has been two weeks already, and I have been here for a whole month. So, now I have a Blog for the Paris Papers where I can post pictures as well as these entries. If you are reading this you obviously discovered it. If you like, you can post comments and look at all my lovely pictures. So where have I been? What have I been doing? Short answer: TONS! Long answer: (keep reading)…

Le Champs Elysses

I took a day and did a huge walking tour of Paris; I started at 10 in the morning and just walked until 5 in the evening. I left my apartment and walked up to L’Arc de Triumphe, down the Champs Elysses all the way to the Louvre (passing the Obelisk), went to the Petit Palais Museum (very cool), I tracked down some church spires that I could see from a distance (I found the only 2 American churches in Paris), found a statue of George Washington (how many statues of Napoleon are there in Washington DC? Zero!), and eventually ended up at La Tour Eiffel, and with very tired feet went home. I am not sure how many miles I walked, but my feet were dead the next day. Note to self: the Metro is your friend!

The Thinker by: Rodin

The next day (Sunday), my API group went to the Musee Rodin, home of the famous “Thinker.” The museum was very nice. I think I prefer sculptures to paintings, there is just more life in a sculpture. I especially like the ones that look as though they are just about to spring to life and have a conversation with you. Not that I don’t respect painters, me being incapable of even producing a stick-figure.

I went shopping with Kristen (the other American who lives here) and ended up with some new somewhat stylish pieces, well, more stylish than my usual wardrobe. I definitely liked taking advantage of LES SOLDES; I didn’t spend much, and got some cool stuff.

Real classes started on the 23rd of January, and my first class, economics, was not fun. The professor was hard to understand, and he used way too much economics jargon. In an hour I hardly understood anything. I was quite discouraged! But my other classes went much better. My history professors are excellent, and my Sociology professor has a nasty habit of not showing up for class, apparently this happens quite often with University Professors in France. The structure of classes is quite different, each class meets twice a week, once for an hour and a half lecture, and the second time for an hour and a half smaller group di

scussion (called a TD). There are virtually no assignments, other than one paper and/or one presentation, and the final exam. And there are no assigned textbooks. There is a suggested bibliography for supplemental reading, but each class has a packet of primary source documents and articles that we have to read and present in turn (the aforementioned presentation assignment called an exposé). It is quite different; the jury is still out as to whether I prefer this method over the American system. I spend most of my evenings going over my notes from classes and looking things up online (when I can get on) to double check that I understood the lesson in French. So it is like doing double the work at the moment, I am sure that the longer I am here, the less I will need to rely on outside sources to check myself. So, my seemingly finalized schedule is Roman History (the Foundation through the Republic), Twentieth Century History (with the focus being on the two World Wars from the Frenc

h Perspective), Sociology, French Cuisine (which starts in March), and French as a Foreign Language (concentrating on the written aspect).

I have made some French friends in my classes, all of whom have been very kind in making sure that I am understanding properly, and being my partners for the projects. They also are kind enough to correct my French while we are chatting outside of class. I find that after a certain point my brain just cannot handle French at the end of the day. It just feels like an over-used muscle. It is still frustrating when I cannot say exactly what I mean, and it is harder still when I have to ask people to repeat things more than once, but I am getting better at it every day. I am also tutoring some French students in English and American studies in exchange for a little supplemental French tutoring.

For the time being I do not have classes on Wednesdays, and so that is more time I get to spend being a tourist. During that time and on weekends I have visited many places:

The Pantheon

I visited the Pantheon, which is located near the Sorbonne University. The Pantheon crypt is home to the final resting places of many of France’s great intellectuals such as: The Curies (Pierre and Marie), Victor Hugo, Zola, Voltaire, Rousseau, Louis Braille, and others. So I paid my respects to the great thinkers of France and spend some time gazing at the frescoes on the ground floor of the Pantheon.

La Conciergerie

I spent an afternoon in the Conciergerie. This building was once a prison, and is where Marie Antoinette spent the last 72 days of her life before being executed by the Guillotine. Ironically enough, this building is also where Robespierre (a key figure in the French Revolution and Reign of Terror) spent his final hours. Though the building has seen many changes, it was still a nice little history lesson.

Inside La Sainte Chapelle, notice the lack of spacing between the windows, it is like that on 3 sides, it is truly a wonder!

One of the wondows at La Sainte Chapelle

Close Up (sorry so many, but they are just so beautiful!)

I also spent part of the same afternoon in the Cathedral adjacent to the Conciergerie, Sainte Chapelle. This cathedral is nicknamed “The Jewel Box,” and with good reason. The walls are nothing but stained glass windows in brilliant colors. On a sunny day it is quite possibly the most beautiful sight in all of Paris as the sun streams through the stained glass sending thousands of tiny rainbow-colored shafts of light dancing throughout the cathedral. I know that it all sounds idealistically poetic, but it is so true. I have pictures, but they just do not do it justice. Sainte Chapelle also is the former home of two great religious relics. There were once 13 cathedrals by this name in France, and each was so named because they housed either an al leged piece of the crown of thorns worn my Jesus Christ when He was crucified, an alleged piece of the cross upon which He was crucified, or both. All the remaining relics are now housed together in Notre Dame, and that is an adventure for another day. The Sainte Chapelle in Paris housed both a thorn, and a fragment of wood from the crucifixion.

La Place de la Bastille

I have also visited La Place de La Bastille, the former home of the infamous prison that was destroyed by the revolutionaries of the French Revolution. In the Metro station there is an area that is fenced off where the only remaining stones of the structure remain, apparently they were discovered when the Metro tunnels were being dug, and they were preserved. Now in the square above there is a giant tower commemorating the revolution.

La Place des Voges

The Arched Ceiling of the Promenade around la Place des Voges

Quite near La Place de la Bastille there is a wonderful park that is known as La Place des Voges. Voges is a region in France, and the barons of this region were the first to pay taxes to the French crown, and in thanks, the king named this neighborhood for them. All of the surrounding streets are also named for regions in France and these names were given in the same manner once taxes were paid to the crown. It is a beautiful square, red brick apartment buildings fence in a lovely park. There is also a museum in one of these buildings, because Victor Hugo, the writer (Les Misérables), once lived in this complex.

There is also an ancient Roman Arena a few blocks up from my school. I paid a visit to this site one afternoon. I have also seen the Tour Montparnasse, and I was disappointed to discover that it is an everyday, run-of-the-mill skyscraper. I visited La Madeleine, a church that looks very much like the Parthenon in Greece, and La Geode which is an IMAX theatre that looks a lot the Epcot globe, only covered with mirrors, I am going to go back another day for a show I think.

I have purchased an annual pass to the Louvre Museum, so now I can got back whenever I want and not pay anymore. Basically, if I only go twice more, the pass pays for itself, and I intend to go more than twice!

Chateau Vincennes

La Sainte Chapelle de la Chateau de Vincennes

One of the things I love most about Paris, is you never know what you are going to find. I have been going on some random adventures. I decided to find out if there was a chateau at the Metro stop “Chateau Vincennes.” I figured that there had to have been at some point in time, and I was curious if there still was. I could not find anything in my housemate’s guide book, and my host family did not know either. So I took the Metro to the end of the l

ine, got out, and behold, there sat a huge fortress. Apparently, construction on the chateau/fortress began during the middle ages, and from the twelfth century, up through Napoleon I, the chateau served as a hunting lodge, primary royal residence, military fort, prison, retreat, and is now the home of all of the French military records. It is also home to another Sainte Chapelle, which, as the one in the heart of the city, housed assumed parts of the cross, and crown of thorns. It is interesting to walk around the buildings and see the monograms of generations of monarchs who each left their mark on the chateau.

Stained Glass at St. Denis

Saint Denis (from the facade of Notre Dame)

I have also paid my respects to all the monarchs of France who are entombed at St. Denis Basilica. For another fun little historical quip: Saint Denis is the man for whom Mont Martre (The Hill of the Martyr) is named, he was sent to convert the Gauls to Christianity, and was beheaded near the modern site of Sacre Coeur Cathedral. In art and statue he is always pictured holding his severed head. So, now, if you are ever on Who Wants to Be a Millionaire, you know who St. Denis was. This church houses the tombs of most of the Kings (and their families) of France, from Dagobert to Louis XVIII. Each tomb is also decorated with a likeness of the monarch within, and it is like looking at their faces. I know it sounds mo

rbid, but it was a truly fascinating visit. I also happened to be there on a perfect day for viewing the rose windows of the Cathedral, when I arrived, the sun was in the perfect position to light up the stained glass, and it was enchanting. Yes, I do have somewhat of an affinity for stained glass windows.

I also had the opportunity to take in an art exhibition featuring the paintings of Jacques Louis David. Who? He is a painter who painted for Louis XVI (before he lost his head), through the French Revolution, through the Reign of Terror, and then he painted Napoleon. He is one of my favorite historical painters his paintings are always very realistic, and I like his use of light. It is quite likely that you have all seen his work: Napoleon’s coronation, Napoleon Crossing the Alpes (the Emperor looking very noble on a rearing white steed, but I am sure

the history buffs are chuckling right now), and the Assassination of Marat, to name a few. It was a very nice exhibit and a potential topic for my History Capstone. If I can do it, I would like to explore exactly how he survived such a tumultuous period as such a prominent artist.

In addition to sight-seeing I am also having cultural lessons, for instance, all French women apparently have small feet. I discovered a hole in the side of my shoe (which is very uncomfortable when it is raining or cold and windy), and sought to replace my sneakers. Apparently in this country women all have feet under the equivalent of an American size 9.5 (for the record, I wear an 11). So I am in the process of seeking some men’

s shoes that fit. I am also trying to learn to eat the European way, with my fork in my left hand, it is not easy. And I am still trying to adjust to the fact that absolutely EVERYTHING is closed on Sunday. It is just so bizarre.

Fall Out Boy

Last Thursday, I attended a concert, the America band, Fall Out Boy (they were on the radio all the time when I left with “Sugar we’re going down swinging). It was like being back in the states, there were so many Americans there, mostly students I think. It was really interesting, especially since they were prefaced by to French rock bands, which were very interesting to listen to.

Le Chateau at Angers

Beautiful Bridge in Angers

Me and the Chateau at Angers

I spent the weekend in Angers, France (about an hour and a half from Paris by train) with a fellow UMaine student who is studying there. Kayleigh gave me a tour of the town. It was so strange being out of the city; I guess I have grown accustomed to urban life. In Angers there is an amazing chateau. It is positively HUGE. I it was very exciting. We wandered around and visited some of the other sights, churches, and a couple of museums. We also went to a hockey game. I was very excited about that. Angers has a team, and I guess it is the equivalent of the Portland Pirates or Manchester Monarchs. It was so nice to watch some hockey (and during UMO-UNH weekend no less!)! The game was the same in terms of rules, but the commentary was in French, and it seemed like play was faster. Unfortunately, Angers lost in over-time. All in all it was a great weekend, and the perfect way to kick off traveling, because now I am inspired and feel more ready to travel outside of France! I am currently somewhat planning an adventure to Barcelona, a potential excursion to Budapest, I would like to also visit Belgium, and possibly Austria, but it is going to come down to timing. I also have several day trips in mind to various places in France.

Last night I stayed up all night to watch the SuperBowl with the other American students, so I am feeling a little bit tired today. But coming up this week: maybe Spain, definitely the catacombs (the mass tombs under the city), and what ever else may come my way! I hope this edition of the Papers finds you all well and I hope that you were not bored out of your skulls, I can’t help with the history narration, and I am going to be a history teacher after all! Until next time!

~Monica :o)